Munich during Oktoberfest
“Munich, Germany’s most livable and ‘yuppie’ city, is also one of its most historic, artistic, and entertaining. It’s big and growing, with a population of 1.5 million. Until 1871, it was the capital of an independent Bavaria. Its imperial palaces, jewels and grand boulevards constantly remind visitors that this was once a political and cultural powerhouse. Meanwhile, the concentration camp in nearby Dachau reminds us that 80 years ago it provided a springboard for Nazism. Today, Munich is a city of the 21st century, but still respects its past – in 2008 the city celebrated its 850th birthday.” Rick Steves Germany
We woke up early and drove the 30 minutes from our apartment into town. We parked in a garage, made a bathroom stop and walked into town heading straight for the Marienplatz (Mary’s Square) which is Munich’s main pedestrian only square, bordered with the Old Town Hall, the New Town Hall and St. Peter’s Cathedral. The New Town Hall, above, was built from 1867 until 1908. Because this building survived the bombs and had a central location, it served as the US military headquarters in 1945. The new Town Hall is famous for its glockenspiel – only 100 years old which ‘jousts’ daily at 11:00 and 12:00. Since it was 10:50 when we arrived, we waited anxiously with a square FULL of Oktoberfest dressed people for the glockenspiel to do it’s thing. Just as in other cities, it was hardly entertaining but we kept watching, thinking something spectacular must be coming.
Oktoberfest celebrates the 1810 marriage reception of King Ludwig I which was such a success that it turned into an annual bash. These days, the Oktoberfest lasts just over two weeks starting on the third Saturday in September and usually ending on the first Sunday in October.
It was fun to walk through the crowds of people and see so many dressed in traditional Bavarian dress. We had an especially great day of people watching! I wished I were all dressed up too! Wouldn’t Matthew be so cute in little lederhosen? I was definitely tempted but they are SOOO expensive.
Lebkuchenherz… Lebkuchen resembles gingerbread and Herz describes the heart. These heart shaped cookies are individually wrapped and hung with string to decorate and purchase in all kinds of shops. The BMW factory gave the boys some at the Museum the day before. We also saw many young women wearing them around their necks like a necklace – supposedly guys buy ones with cute sayings for their girlfriends to wear.
We walked from the Marienplatz around the corner past the small town open-air market and back around to view some of the cathedrals. On the right is St. Peter’s Church, the oldest church in town. “It’s built on the hill where Munich’s original monastic inhabitants probably settled.”
Outside old tombstones were plastered onto the wall – “a reminder that in the Napoleonic age, the cemeteries surrounding most city churches were (for hygienic and practical space reasons) dug up and moved.”
We decided to climb the spire for the view of Munich. 306 steps to the top with a two way traffic on one way stairs. It was pretty cramped. At the top was no different. We managed to lose each other as we squished our way to the edge to take a glance over the edge in all directions.
View of the Frauenkirche on the left… and a great view of the New Town Hall and the Marienplatz on the right. We soon realized the crowds at the top of the spire were to see the 12:00 glockenspiel show. 
As soon as the ‘show’ started my mom and I decided to head down and miss the crowd on the stairs again. Two flights from the top was perfect timing to hear the church bells go off right beside them. We peeked in a window to see them swaying back and forth. They were loud but not as loud as I thought they’d be. Stairways all to ourselves…
On this section below, a crowd of ten large people passed us. I nestled into that little window hole but Mom was stuck right at the curve trying to squish herself into the wall. The large people just pushed on through and mom and I got the giggles, laughing about the situation. Good thing my mom is skinny! I just had to take a picture of the stairs so I’d remember.
After the spire climb, we walked into the church which had now finished it’s service. It was a beautifully light cathedral with gold accents. “ St. Peter’s was badly damaged in World War II, but because it is part of the soul of Munich, the church was lovingly rebuilt and the altar and ceiling frescoes were marvelously restored (possible with the help of Nazi catalog photos.)”
Apostles line the nave, leading up to St. Peter above the altar. On the ceiling, you’ll see Peter crucified upside-down.
Right outside St. Peter’s church we saw a bakery and decided to stop for a snack… much to my kids delight. Equally as excited was Grandpa… to say my Dad loves bread is an understatement. We got a few different things to share… including a delicious super sized pretzel. That’s my new favorite picture of 6 year old Megan.
Next we wanted a little peak of the Hofbrauhaus… yes, it’s a beer hall, THE most famous beer hall in the world. Rick Steves says, “Whether or not you slide your lederhosen on its polished benches, it’s a great experience just to walk through the world’s most famous beer hall in all its rowdy glory.” And I think in the middle of Oktoberfest definitely qualifies as “all its rowdy glory”. We split up so we didn’t have to take the stroller or little boys. Grandma, Katie, Emily, Ryan and I walked around the lines of people trying to get a table and up the stairs to the large beer hall to take a look.
Oh. My. Goodness.
We could hear the music before we even got there. A live German oompah band playing away, loud enough to fill the entire room. It was such a scene. rows and rows filled with bodies, each with huge glass HB mugs filled to the top with beer. Beer maids in Bavarian dress wandered around holding up to 6 huge mugs in their hands. They ushered us to the left and we walked down the pathway all the way towards the band. When we reached the front the band played a song and everyone simultaneous started singing while swinging their beer mugs to and fro.
It was something to see. My mom and I couldn’t help but have a shocked smile on.
We wandered through the downstairs area, and got a good look at some of the locals on our way out.
The bottom of the wooden plague says “Munchen” which is really what the name of this city is in German. Who knows why Americans say and spell some European cities differently?
Next we headed over to the Residenz… “corridors of gilded imperial Bavarian grandeur”.
“The Wittelsbachs, who ruled Bavaria for nearly 700 years, modeled the front of their enormous palace on the Medici family’s Pitti Palace in Florence.” (been there) The outside and grounds are not nearly as impressive as it’s inside.
We purchased our tickets and picked up our free English audio guide to listen to as we walked around.
The palace festival banquet hall… It’s gorgeous, and lined with busts of emperors implying a connection between Europe’s royal families, such as the Wittelsbachs, and the ancient Roman rulers. 200 dignitaries can dine here. The paintings show 120 Bavarian villages as they looked in 1550.
The grand ballroom. We enjoyed a little dancing while we were here.
After we toured the Residenz we played tag in the courtyard and ate a few snacks as we rested on the benches. Then we went and found some gelato.
We stopped for dinner at Berni’s Ristorante Pizzeria. We ordered Fanta and great pizza’s and a pasta dish. It was perfect. We wandered back along the main street to our cars and drove back to the apartment. A great day in Munich.
